Galavanting to Gigondas

I've decided not to head up the Rhone River. Mostly because I couldn't find cheap lodging up there since all the campsites are closed. Also, the wineries start to peter out. However, I did find a hostel in Gigondas, right in the middle of wine country and well known in it's own right. So I figured, perfect.

The ride to Gigondas was uneventful if horribly horribly uncomfortable. I guess the rain that came in yesterday brought in a cold front because it's annoyingly cold now. And dreary. I can't say that the ride was fun at that point. I figured that I'd stop into Vaqueray first since it's only 3km away from Gigondas and is also known as a different unique region. That's right, you're supposed to get significantly different wine 3km away. Crazy isn't it? Especially when most of the vinyards for the towns are all int he same flat space, although Gigondas does work it's way up the hill a little.

Anyway, I went to one of the winemakers in Vaqueray to try their wares. Most of them were basically closed, but I got somebody to open the door for me. It was this nice lady although I could tell she was thinking "stupid kid tourist wants free samples". Anyway, it wasn't worth the stop. All their wine was horrible. So, on to Gigondas to drop off my gear and get some lunch.

I wasn't in too good a shape when I got there because I was cold and it was starting to rain, but I got to drop off my stuff in the virtually empty hostel and change into some warmer clothes. Turns out that this hostel exists because right behind Gigondas is a small mountain range called the Dentelles de Montmirail, which has some great hiking and climbing. So the hostel caters to the eco-toursists. It's even a common stop for bike tours.

I went up to the town for lunch, which of course was pretty empty. The only people there were the folks working in the local vineyards, so I found a small place. There was one other lunch customer who knew the proprietress pretty well it seemed. They were chatting all lunch. Between the chatting, I managed to order a tarte (quiche) of broccoli and smoked salmon with a glass of wine and finished with some tea. The tea was the best part. I was finally able to chase away the chill I had all morning.

After lunch, I wanted to do a tour up through the hills so I headed up. The paved road stopped and it turned into some mountain biking through the vineyards that were clinging to the hills. I'd almost say that this was the most scenic part I've seen so far. It took me a while to figure out since I haven't really done much before, but it was fun. Took a little while though. Although part of that was that I was stopping every 50m to take a picture :-)



On the other side of the ridge, I found some paved roads and made my way down to Baumes-de-Venise where I stopped at a couple of wine caves. I found out that most of the vines up in the hills were Muscat and they make an excellent wine. I ended up buying a small bottle of the Muscat, mostly because it would remind me of the incredible ride. I also found a Plan-de-Dieu that could use some aging, but it was a nice subtle complex flavour and for 8 euros was a steal.

Finally, I made my way back to the hostel and found out where the other tennants were. They were up in the mountains hiking all day. I walked in and the front porch was covered with very muddy hiking boots. My kind of place :-)

Pictures

By the way, the album for this trip will be at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mdesnoyer/Europe09

Carrying on To Chateauneuf-Du-Pape

Looking online last night I wasn't able to find any reasonably priced places to stay further North, so I knew that I'd end the day in Orange. There were no youth hostels, no campgrounds I could find that were open this time of year. The best I could find was in Orange, which is a single room place for 32 euros. Not the super cheapness of hostels, but it won't break the bank either. The only annoying thing is that Orange is only about 20km from avignon. Not a very long ride at all, so I figured that I'd either be dropping my stuff off in Orange and taking the lighter bike out for a loop, or I'd be just vegging out and relaxing for a day. So, the short of it was that I wasn't very fast getting out of bed.

Of course, that may not have been a bad thing. The day started ominously since I knew rain was in the forecast. I was even woken up at one point during the night by the heavy storm outside. Fortunately, it turned out that by the time I got moving, the rain was basically over and the clouds opened up to the sun and a chilly northern wind.



I knew that I had to stop in Chateaunef-De-Pape because it is THE place that the AOC system started in the Rhone valley. Basically making it the first named Rhone wine. It's also the most famous which is why it's so expensive (~20 euros a bottle on average compared to between 5-10 for other areas) and why you can easily find it in the US.

It's a small town on the top of a hill surrounded by tons and tons of vinyards. As in your wasting space if you have a tree or two. Since wine from the region is so popular (and fetches a good price), and the region is strictly defined about where the grapes can be grown, it would be stupid for a wine maker not to cover every square inch with vines. It was interesting too look at the different vinyards on the way up. There is obviously tons of rocks in the soil, but some growers have let grasses grow around the rocks and produce a little bit of soil whereas others litterlly till piles of rocks and somehow a vine is growing there. I know the theory is that the rocks absorb the sun better during the day and then release that heat slowly at night, creating a more even "soil" temperature, but I don't know why some growers let the weeds go. Maybe the cheaper houses just don't till as much? I didn't really get a good answer from the folks I talked to in town.

Anyway, so my timing arriving was horrible. I got in right at noon just as all the caves were shutting down for lunch. So I decided to find a restaurant, read my book and have lunch to wait it out until 2pm when the caves opened up again. Oh right, I need to explain the caves. So the streets in Chateaunef are solid wine caves. The cave is basically a place where you can get free tastings of some of the wines. Some of them are run by the winemakers themselves, whereas others are run by negotiants or middle men, who then will let you try wines from a few different producers. So yeah, the town is completely stuffed with caves and lording over the whole thing is the broken papal castle that was burned down most recently in WWI.

So after taking some pictures, I sat down to lunch. I figued I'd do the full menu of the day. Tip, if you go to southern france, always get the special of the day. It's a lot cheaper that picking things and if you go for the menu, you'll get appetizer, entree, dessert and coffee usually for a very reasonable price. In this case I was looking at 15 euros where my appetizer was a salad and a slice of quiche. This plate looked exactly like what you'd order in the states at a french bistro for lunch and it was only the appetizer. For the main, I had a steak with a pepper sauce accompanied with sauteed vegetables and bread. I was surprised by the steak because they barely seared the thing. Almost mooing and delicious. I didn't have dessert because at this point I was stuffed even with a good morning climb up the hill to get there.

After lunch, I went to a few caves, bought a bottle of wine for aging and some spendildly mild goat cheese. I spent a lot of time talking to this lady from one of the vineyards about how they make their wine. They sell a Cheteauneuf and a Cotes Du Rhone and the vinyards are right beside each other, so you're not getting that much of a difference in raw grape quality. However, because of the way the market works, they can sell the Cotes Du Rhone for 10 euros and the Chateauneuf for 20. So, the Chateauneuf gets coddled because they can afford to do so. They pick all the grapes and lay them out on a table. Then they manually inspect everything and if the grape isn't ready, into the garbage it goes. She said about 20-25% of grapes get thrown out in this step. Then, since aging the wine in oak is expensive, they only do that to the Chateauneuf, but not the Cotes. A note, many new world producers that have cheap, oaky wines like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon will get the oak by throwing woodchips into the stainless steel vat while the wine is maturing. Anyway, back to France :-) I tasted their 2006s side by side to see the difference and it was absolutely huge. The Cotes was super fruity, one might even say a fruit bomb, but I'm hesitant to say that because I've been having so much french wine lately that my pallate's probably shifting. The Chateauneuf on the other hand had a nice oaky and smoky complexity to it that slowly gave way to the fruit in the finish. It was excellent, but for 30 euros a bottle I couldn't justify it especially when I had already found a bottle down the street for 17 that needs aging, but will most likely be just as good.

So after my wine lesson up on the hill, I went north down the other side to get to Orange. The ride itself was beautiful if short (10km). It was through the vineyards and you could see for miles. In the distance, Mont Ventoux was visible with a crown of clouds lording over all the golden leafed vines. There were other cyclists on the route too who were just doing either a training, or a fun ride on road bikes. It's really easy to see why this area is popular for riding even at this time of year when it's ever so slightly chilly with the wind.

In Orange, the reception for the hotel was closed, but I expected that. It's Monday and a lot of toursit places are closed or have short hours on Monday. Hey, they need a break too right? Especially when most of these places are just family run affairs. Anyway, they had already given me the keycode to get in and my room key was on the desk at the front. I honestly think that I'm the only person in this hotel tonight, which is kind of eerie. It's a great place, especially for 32 euros a night. Clean and brightly painted and has all the basics you need even if the bathroom and shower are shared with a bunch of rooms. I'd much rather be in a place like this than pay three times as much for my own can. That would be silly.

Orange has more roman ruins. They're all over this area. In this case, the most striking one is the Roman theatre. It's huge! Oh and it's still used as a theatre :-) I kind of want to see a show there although I'm not here at the right time to do that. Maybe when I come back with Catherine. They're playing a kockoff of Phantom of the Open called Phantomes du Theatre. Oh and there's a new fancy theatre just down the street, but I like the old Roman one personally.

I wanted to save some money on dinner tonight, just I bought a kebab from a street vendor and a merangue for desert from a patisserie and then enjoyed some of my goat cheese with goat sausage and wine bread. A good way to end the day.

Beautiful Baux De Provence

At the beggining of the trip, Tom, the guy I rented the bike from recommended that I go to St. Remy de Provence because it was a beautiful medival town nestled in the hills surrounded by some of the best riding in Provence. Not one to turn down good advice, I figured that it would be worth doing a day trip down there since it's only 20 km from Avignon and Avignon has cheaper lodging. So, today was this day trip, fortunately without the huge bags. A nice change that meant I moved significantly faster.

The ride to St. Remy was actually fairly boring. It was nice country roads and very flat so it was just good exercise without much to see except the countryside which was full of the normal mix of rural areas. I arrived in St. Remy around 11:30am and started looking around town. It was obviously not the one that Tom was thinking of, but it was a pretty neat town anyway. My guidebook said that it's become something of a foodie's paradise, so I set out to try and scop that. In the center of town, there were doing an awards ceremony for a race that apparently had run earlier. It seemed to be a teenage meet doing sub 10km. Pretty neat to see. I wandered around the town to see it and get my bearings, figuring that I'd get lunch as soon as the restaurants opened. I went past a cheese shop that looked fantastic from the outside and my guidebook said that they've been agiging cheese in their celler since the 11th century. Stupidly, I didn't go in, thinking that I could just come back after lunch. I had forgotten the fact it was Sunday and didn't notice that there were closed on Sunday afternoons. Pretty dumb of me really.

Well, I found a place for lunch that I didn't feel too bad about eating at in my bike clothes. The owner's were perfectly happy with me coming by for food and I expect that I really shouldn't be worried about that. Anyway, it was this italian place. I figured, hey I'm close enough to Italy they should be able to do it right. Yep, basically they did. I ordered a spaghetti au Provencal with Gambas. To translate: spagetti with herbs de provence (sage, thyme and parsley), a could of tomatoes and a bunch of Gambas. Gambas are a lot like Shrimp, but I think they're slightly different even though they don't look like it. Ok, on your plate they look a little different because they're usually served with the heads still on, but still.

Reading my guidebook some more, it sounded like the town Tom was talking about was actually Baux de Provence, which was 10km south through the itty bitty mountain range. I figured, hey, what the hell, it should be interested, so I went down. First though I stopped at the Roman ruins (Gallum) south of the city. Most of it was closed for some reason, but it was still possible to take pictures of the Triumphal Arch and peer through the gates.

Shortly after the ruins ended, the mountains began. They're not big per se, but they are quite beautiful. It took me about 15 min to climb to the high point of the road, which was about 3/4 of the way up to the summit I figure. Along the way, there were tons of trailheads for hiking and I will say, they were quite busy. At this point, I wanted to come back to St. Remy in the afternoon to visit the cheese shop and do some olive oil and truffle tasting, so I was thinking I'd get to the top of the ridge, which would give me a view to the other side and be able to see Baux right? Wrong? It was quite treed. So I sped down the other side and man, am I glad I did. It is absolutely gorges there. There are alternating olive groves and vinyards with the hills in the background. When I finally could see Baux, it took my breath away. The old castle perched on the top of a hill protecting it's little medieval town nestled in the fold leading up to it. Very picturesque.

So, after taking some pictures, I made my way back to St. Remy. I was concerned about daylight so I didn't want to dally even though it was pretty special. In St. Remy, I found the cheese shop was closed. Damn! and got to try some pretty spectacular olive oil. I had a nice little flight, all grown right where I was biking a half hour before. One was all black olives, one half black, half green and the last all green. The green they got, the more interesting and herbaceous in my opinion.

From St. Remy to avignon, I made great time since I was able to keep up a consistent pace of 28 km/h. It felt good to be able to still have gas in the tank after moving all day. Back in Avignon, I found a tapas place for dinner, which served some interesting takes on things. I had a sardine empenanda, some mushrooms in garlic and I think cloves or allspice, an artichoke ragou and finally some escargots in a ridicously spicy sauce. It was an interesting presenation for the escargots, but I wasn't too much of a fan of the spiciness. Oh, that reminds me, I bet the escargot were local. I saw a couple of escargots farms while riding along. Anyway, for desert, I had a pastis. If I'm in Provence, I had to try a pastis at some point. They give you the shot in a tall glass with an icecube in it, then give you a carafe of water to water down as much as you'd like. I tried a few different dillutions and I think I ended up with about 3:2 water to pastis. It was very anise and good. Made me wonder: could you infuse water with anise the way you do with cucumber or lemons or mint? I think that might be good.

Anyway, that was dinner. Not much to say after that.

Sur Le Pont D'Avignon On y Danse

The plan for today was a little bit longer than yesterday. I needed to get from Nimes to Avignon and just a little out of the way was the Pont Du Gard. It's a world hertiga heritage site consisting of a roman aqueduct crossing the valley. It sounded worth the short detour, so I figured why not. That would bring my mileage for the day to around 60km.

Heading out of Nimes, I took the northern route, which brought me up near Uzes. For the first chunk, it was a good long climb that was pretty much kicking my ass. However, at the top of the ridge it was so worth it. The picture's don't look great because of the overcast sky, but it was quite a picturesque little ridge. Not to mention a fun ride back down the hill :-). At one point, I even got to cross a medieval bridge that went into a medieval town.

Once off the ridge, I started seeing more vineyards. Not wanting to repeat a missed opportunity, I went into one of the first ones. The vinyard was actually a town and it was just a vin de pays. I have one word for their wine: atrocious. It was completely unbalanced and poorly made. It made me wonder if they knew what they were doing. So, suffice it to say, that was a dissapointment.

After getting close to Uzes, I started heading southeast to get to Pont Du Gard. This road was a lot flatter so I made good time, getting to the monument right at lunch hour. I started trying to look for a restaurant, but a lot of them were closed, so I just grabbed a couple of crepes from the tourist stall. The aqueduct itself was pretty impressive. It's in such great condition and pretty damn big considering it's 3 layers of arches. Apparently it's also incredibly precises so that the water is very consistently, and very slowly, flowing downhill. Very good piece of engineering.

After Pont-Du-Gard, I hopped on the road to Avignon and passed many more vineyards including the fringes of the cotes-du-rhone. I didn't stop because I wanted to get to Avignon before dark, (Note this is a common theme. If I were to do this trip again, I'd do it in September). Going along, the road got more and more intense, eventually becomming a 90 kmh 4 lane divided highway. Stupid GPS. It said that road was the same as the one from Nimes to Ules, which was definitely bike friendly. I wish it had proper information. Eventually, I pulled off at an exit where there was a fruit and vegetable stand and bought some apples. They were local and 70 cents a kilo, so I figured sweet. Unfortunately, they had been left in the sun too long and were quite mushy. Edible, but definitely didn't meet my expectations.

From there, I found some back roads to get into Avignon proper and went to the hotel. I had a room all to myself and the hotel was right on the main street for only 32 euros for the night. A pretty good deal if I do say so myself.

I knew that in Avignon, I had to explore and see the sights. In particular, I had to see the famous Pont D'Avignon that I remember signing about in school.

Sur le Pont D'Avignon
On y danse
On y danse
Sur le Pont D'Avignon
On y danse
Toute en ronde

etc etc.

Turns out it's a broken bridge that's too small to actually dance in a circle on. Ah I love historic ironies.

Around town there was also the Chateaux Du Pape, where the Pope had his headquarters at one point in the middle ages because he moved it from Rome. Of course after he died, two popes claimed the title, one in Avignon and one in Rome so they had to have a war to figure it out. After that, the papacy went back to Rome and has stayed there.

I also explored the shops before they closed. I went into a bakery and tried one of their farrines. It was spectacular and I'm sure we could reproduce it. It was a shortbread cookie topped with a raspberry jam and a vanilla cream. The jam and cream were thicker though so that they held their shape when I took a bite out of them. mmmmmmm tasty. I also stopped into a wine shop that revolves around tasting the wines. You get a card with money on it and then put it in a machine and press a button to get your taste. Each taste costs from 0.80 to 4 euros depending on the wine. They only had stuff from southern france, but they had a good selection including some from the northern rhone and all the way to the languedoc. This made it easy to compare the different wine styles. I actually found a wine from Crozes Hermitage that was quite spicy and flavorful. I'm planning on buying it when I come back through Avignon on my way to drop off the bike.

For dinner, I was going to go to a place that my guide recommended. However, it turned out to be more expensive than advertised (probably because it got in the guide :-)) So I ended up at one of the restaurants beside it. This place was for a younger crowd as they had live music going, sung in English and it was decorated for Halloween. I had the menu and chose a zuchinni soup to start, followed by a shell pasta in cream sauce and shrimp. For desert, I'm not sure exactly what I got. He called it a souflee, but it was frozen like ice cream, yet lighter and then drizzled with Clementine and raspberry sauces. Everything was good except that the shrimp were slightly overcooked, but I was happy.

Beginning the Bike Ride

Well the day today started in Montpelier. It's a quaint little town alright. Palm trees in the square and streets so narrow you can only walk down them (well at least in the downtown part). There's all sorts of shops along the streets and as the day goes one, the street changes as restaurants will put out tables for their patrons. In the morning, it's the boulangeries providing a sumptuous breakfast. In the evenings, the other restaurants open.

Anyway, I didn't spend much time here this morning since I had to hope on a train to Lunel to pick up my bike. After a short 15min ride, I was in the heart of another charming town. After wandering around a bit (read getting lost) and buying some sunscreen I forgot, I found the bike shop and started loading it up. This consisted of ripping apart my pack and asking "do I need this" countless times. Of course, as is usual, the answer left all the bags completely full. Why does this always happen? On top of that I realized later in the day, this didn't leave room for some bottles of wine! I don't know exactly how this will work. I supposed I can rig something up on the rat trap to open some space in the saddle bags. Well, gotta find some wine first I suppose.

Before I left with my bike, I got the skinny on all the traffic rules, emergency numbers etc. Plus I got the GPS, which was supposed to help me navigate. Tom at the shop was incredibly helpful. Anyway, the GPS, it took me about 1/2 hour to realize the thing's on crack. Or at least the route finding algorithm. Well it doesn't help that the French maps on one hand are incomplete because they don't always have the street name (turn left on road), but on the other hand, they've mapped every little cow trail! Ok, not cow trail, but tractor trail for sure. Since it was in "bike" mode, it was avoiding the highways and going the shortest distance possible. This meant, you got it, I was shortly riding my bike through dirt and some mud. At least it was sunny. I was not impressed. Espeically when the highway even had a bike lane!

I was only going 45km today, but I wanted to make sure I got to my hostel in Nimes with plenty of time to spare so that'd I'd have time to see some of the town. It is supposed to have all sorts of Roman ruins including a very intact amphitheatre. So, I didn't stop the first couple of times I saw signs for wine caves. In retrospect I should have, but now I know. I need a bumper sticker: I brake for wine.

Also, it turns out that in Provence, everybody's on a fairly strict schedule food wise. Mostly because it's a huge part of life. Shops are open in the morning until noon. At that point, they close and the restaurants open until 2. Then the shops reopen until 7, when the restaurants open for dinner. Honestly, I kind of like the idea. Oh, and they won't serve you if you don't come during the right time. Of course, it's always possible to get food that's to western fast food expectations and McDonalds pushing in, or, I suppose the patisserie are open most of the day. But of course, you can always use a patisserie :-)

So, because of this timing, I missed lunch. I wasn't in the middle of a town at the right time and I would rather eat a bagel than McDonalds any day. When I eventually got to Nimes, I got a surprise. It turns out that I can't search for an address on my GPS. Probably has something to do with the fact that it doesn't have half the street names. Arrgggg. I need an android phone for this. So, I had the address of my hostel and no idea of how to get there. I finally solved the dilemma by going to the town center, finding a map and finding the street on that. Yay for low tech. To make it fun, the hostel was outside of town and it was up a ridiculous hill. It was a good way to end the day riding, but it's a lot harder going up hills with tons of crap on the back of the bike.


I got some time before it got dark to go back to town and check out the Roman ruins. The amphitheatre is crazy. It's so complete that they still use it for bull fights. It always amazes me to see this stuff that people put together 2000 years ago. Blows my mind. Other sights were the cathedral and the old roman gardens. In the center of town, there's a huge area of walking only steets and they're filled with restaurants and incredibly chique designer shops. Interestingly, they were all woman's clothing or housewares. Don't know what that means exactly.

For dinner, I went to a wine shop guide book recommended. Of course, I had to wander for an extra hour after dark until they opened up. It's the downside of it getting dark so early. The food was spectacular and paired with the local Cartier de Nimes wine. For an appetizer, I had smoked salmon on blintzes covered in a frothy mushroom cream sauce. The main was search duck with a olive gravy and sides of a garlicy potato gratin, some carrots and honey, and a eggplant grating. Desert was frozen nougat with a strawberry coulis. I didn't know you can freeze nougat, but it worked really well. I'm sure it only works if you have the light and fluffy kind, but it was spectacular and the coulis was so clean with it.

That's it for tonight. I need sleep :-)

Trains and Planes Oh My

Today has been a lot of time traveling. I'm writing this right now on the train from Barcelona to Montepellier at 6pm local time. I left pittsburgh at 2:30pm yesterday, so by the time the day's over, I'll have been traveling for over 24 hours. I guess I can get funny ideas sometimes about the best ways to travel. I guess I just assume that Europe is so small compared to the US, that you can get almost anywhere quickly. Of course, train and plane schedules mean that's not quite true.

So, when I left Pittsburgh, our flight was delayed for over an hour and a half. I was getting freaked because I didn't want to miss my connection to Madrid as there's only one flight a day. It looked like it was going to be close, but I talked to the gatekeeper in Pittsburgh and she said they had the same issue yesterday and that they just rescheduled everybody. Well I figured if they had the same problem yesterday, there's a good chance they'd have it tomorrow, so I figured that I'd risk it. Worst case, I'm stuck in Philly for the day. Well we made it, although I did get some excise running for the gate. It turns out that I was still on the plane to Madrid with plenty of time, but if you know the Philly airport, it can be a decent haul from terminal C to the international terminal A. Plus, I needed some exercise. Too much sitting would be happening way too soon.

The flight across the Atlantic was pretty uneventful. Bad food, but it went pretty fast and I got some sleep thanks to having two seats to stretch out on. It's definitely not a peak travel time. The plane was maybe 40% full.

In Madrid, I have to say that the customs is the easiest I've ever done. I literally didn't have to say a word. Just give the papers, he stamps them and off I go. And luck of luck, my bag actually made the connection too. I was a little worried that I"d have to buy new gear and then pick up my bag next week when I get back to Spain. It's good though.

The Madrid metro seemed pretty good. It was empty for a metro, but then, it was 10am local time. So, it was fast and efficient to get to the Atocha train station. That station is really cool. It looks like where they used to have the rails come in, they turned it into a gigantic tropical greenhouse. Very beutiful way to sit around reading a book waiting the 2 hours for my express train to Barcelona. While I was waiting, I also found a mobile shop and bought a SIM card. Check. One thing down.

The AVE (high speed train) to Barcelona was pretty spectacular. We made the trip in 3 hours and only stopped once in Zargoza. It was a supremely comfortable ride that got up to 300km/h at points. It sure didn't feel like we were going that fast. Of course, then again, most of the time, we were going through some pretty barren desert terrain. I had no idea that Madrid is basically in a desert. It reminds me a lot of the area around Tucson, but without the cacti. I'm pretty sure they're at the end of the dry season now, so I wonder if it actually greenifies with the rain? Even if it did, it was all scrub and rocks. Hardly a tree in sight. I can see why the Spanish colonized California and Arizona.

As we approached Barcelona, the scenery slowly got greener. There were more farms and trees showing up, making things look just like the San Francisco area. Once in Barcelona, I had another hour and a half for my train to Montepellier to leave, so I just grabbed a bite to eat and waited it out. Now, I'm on that train. In Montepellier, I'm staying at the HI hostel about 15min walk from the train station. Really, I just need a place to crash tonight since I'm quite low on sleep. I got maybe 4 hours on the plane another on the train to Barcelona. As for being able to get around, I'm getting frustrated with the Spanish. Yes, it's true that I don't really need it at all, but every time I try to use some simple phrases, my brain goes into foreign mode and french pops out. "Merci beaucoup"