Saturday, August 18, 2007

Day 15 - The Last Leg

I'll be honest that there's not too much to say about my last day. It was pretty anti-climatic. There really wasn't much to see along the way as it was entirely about getting the miles in to pass through four states and arrive in Pittsburgh at a reasonable hour. The only real excitement was around lunch time where I got into such a groove driving that I put off stopping for lunch. Of course, this also meant that I put off stopping for gas too without thinking about it. It was a close call, but it worked. In the end, I rolled through the green hills to arrive in Pittsburgh in the late evening, which was about perfect.

In total, the trip was definitely one I'll remember for the rest of my life. There were just so many amazing things to experience across this gigantic continent. I managed to see a lot, but there's still so much I had to let pass by. It would have been easy to stretch out the adventure for a few weeks or even months more, but alas, we can't always wander forever.

Friday, August 17, 2007

Day 14 - The Archetypical Architecture City


Today was all about exploring downtown Chicago. I started off at the new Millennium Park which had some very interesting monuments. There's the Crown Fountain which is two big blocks facing each other and people's moving faces projected onto them. After some blinking and smiling, the person forms their mouth into an "O" and out pops a stream of water that splashes onto the pavement. There's also the Cloud Gate, more affectionately known by the locals as the Giant Bean, that's a huge polished bean shaped hunk of steel that creates some interesting effects like a reflection of the Chicago skyline. There's also a Gehry outdoor auditorium, which, well, I can't describe in words. You'll have to look at the picture.

After touring the Millenium Park, I walked through downtown towards the Field Museum. It was close enough to lunch that I stopped at a bakery along the way and bought a loaf of sourdough bread to eat. Suffice it to say, it was filling :-). I didn't have too much time at the Field Museum since I had a ticket for an architecture cruise later in the day, but I managed to get through the Egyptian and Natural Earth exhibits. I really wish I had more time since there was so much to see there, but you can't do everything I suppose.

After getting out of the Field Museum, I bolted to the docks for the tour and got there with only about 2 min to spare. The tour itself was excellent. It cruised up the Chicago river around the downtown core while the guide pointed out the salient points of every building including usually some of the history. It was quite interesting. I'd have to say that my favorite building is Marina City which looks like a corncob. The weirdest thing about it is the parking. All through the bottom floors is a spiral parking structure where you have to very carefully back into your spot, making sure not to go too far and drive off the building. It makes an interesting visual effect with all the car backs popping out of the building. The tour guide also pointed out that the condo units provide an interesting interior decorating challenge because the floor plan is shaped like a pie wedge. Also, during the tour, we got the added bonus of watching the Blue Angels practicing for the air show that was going to happen on the weekend. Unfortunately, I couldn't stay to see it :-(

After the tour, I walked up the Magnificent Mile to see what it was about. Basically, it's just the shopping/fashion district so it wasn't too interesting for me. So, I hopped on the train and made my way back to Jenn's place to meet her, Kim and Jenn's family for dinner. It was Kim and Jenn's sister's birthday so everybody was having dinner at the Italian restaurant in Jenn's building and they graciously invited me too. The food was superb and very filling.

After dinner, Jenn, Kim and I went upstairs to open a bottle of sparkling shiraz, which we all enjoyed, and then went out to get some drinks and meet up with Marcello. It was fun evening catching up with folks from Cornell and seeing a couple of new bars. We even ended up at the Green Mill, which is one of the original jazz clubs. It had a great atmosphere and some good live music into the wee hours of the night. By the time the night was over, it was quite late. Ok, it was only late for me. It was really only about 2am, but I was used to being asleep by 10 or 11 and I had to get up relatively early the next day to drive all the way to Pittsburgh. So, even though it was fun times, they had to end, placing a beautiful cap on my trip.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Day 13 - Welcome to Wrigley

I woke up early and set off walking towards Wrigley Field. I had tickets for the game, which didn't start until 1pm, so my plan was to find a cafe along the way and relax for a little bit. It's weird, but walking down Clark St, a major commercial street, it took forever to find a cafe. I was expecting to be able to come across one right away, but they just weren't on the path I took. Anyway, I eventually found one and sat down to have some tea and read a book.

After a while, I set off again. I arrived at Wrigley a little early, so I picked up my tickets and moved on to explore the area. Right around Wrigley, the aptly named Wrigleyville district, it reminded me of Landsdown street right around Fenway; it was basically filled with bars and souvenir shops.

A little further down the street, I ended up in North Hampstead, the gay district. If the rainbow pillars hadn't given it away, all the gay sex shops definitely did! It was pretty quiet, but that wasn't too surprising for late morning on a Thursday.

I also managed to wander into two food stores and found a couple of gems. The first was the liquor/wine store. I was curious if they'd have any sparkling shirazes since I'd had to leave my last bottle in San Francisco with Sarah, Jim and Jeff. Going to the champagne aisle, I discovered to my amazement that not only did they have two brands of the shiraz, but one of them was the exact same one I had to leave behind! The second gem I found at a Whole Foods. I just went in looking for lunch/snack because I didn't want to pay ballpark prices and lo and behold, they had fresh figs! It was one of those things in California that I fell in love with because they're so good and I wasn't expecting to see them again until I got back to the west coast, but here they were in Chicago. Now, I couldn't buy either the wine or the figs before the game because they'd be confiscated going in, but after the game, I came back and bought some of each, partially for my own uses and to give to Jenn for letting me crash at her place.

Finally, it was getting close enough to game time that I went back to Wrigley. The park was gorgeous. It was just so classic. The only ads in the whole place were on the two doors in the outfield, the scoreboard was done by hand and the ivy was a beautiful emerald green. In contrast to Fenway, it was a very symmetric park so there wasn't much in the way of nooks and crannies. However, like Fenway and its Monster Seats, Wrigley has come up with a novel way to add more seats as the fan base has grown. I have to say I like the Wrigley solution more, just because it's so funny. There are seats on the roofs of all the buildings across the road from the park. I'd known about this before and that at one point the Cubs were upset that people were capitalizing on the entertainment they were providing so they were talking about putting up opaque nets. However, they apparently reached a rev share deal with the building owners so that everybody's happy and Wrigley gets some of the most interesting stands in baseball. Out of curiosity, I looked into the price for a seat on one of the buildings well beyond the outfield fence. They're all catered seats and you basically have to buy a large portion of the roof to go, but they come out to well over $100 a seat. Kind of crazy methinks.

Anyway, the game was a lot of fun too, largely because the fans were so into it and the guy beside me was a big ball fan so I got to shoot the shit with him for most of the game. It started off as a fast game as the Cubs plated 4 runs in the bottom of the first, but in the next half inning, the Reds game roaring back to tie the game. The game stayed pretty close until the late innings, when the cubs blew the game open and ended up winning 12-4.

After the game was over, I picked up the wine and figs and headed back to Jenn's place. We went on a 6 mile run along the lakeshore, known to all serious runners as THE place to run in Chicago. It deserves its title, but unfortunately, my leg really wasn't healed yet so I ended up aggravating it. Stupid injuries.

For dinner we went to a contemporary Korean restaurant. Their concept is to introduce the North American diner to Korean cuisine by making sure the wait staff spoke English well, setting up the decor like a normal contemporary restaurant and making the menu easy to understand. The food was excellent and I got to try soju for the first time. It's the main Korean distilled liquor and it's made primarily from potatoes. It was excellent. So incredibly smooth that it put any of the vodka I've ever had to shame. Of course it wouldn't surprise me if we were actually drinking really good soju, but even still, I was impressed.

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Day 12 - Winding Into the Windy City

There wasn't too much planned for today, just a short drive into Chicago to meet up with Jenn who I hadn't seen since leaving Cornell. Since she wouldn't be off of work until late afternoon, I took my time getting out of bed and packing up. However, I dallied a little too long and didn't account for traffic so I didn't actually end up getting to Chicago until about 5pm. Also, coming into Chicago, I was amazed at how horn happy the cabbies were. I was getting honked at all the times for not moving fast enough at the light. Now yes, sometimes it was deserved since I was doing the "I don't know where I am so I'm looking around" stuff, but other times, they'd lay on the horn the second the light turned green even though my foot was already off the brake.

It wasn't too big a deal though. She made dinner, which was some ricotta stuffed ravioli with sauteed vegetables. It was excellent. After dinner and some catching up, we went out to Evanston to meet up with one of her friends for drinks. Jenn had all her pictures from her trip to Manchu Picchu to show us. It definitely looked like an amazing trip and a very unique place. Her timing also turned out to be very good considering that when I was in Chicago, Peru had just been hit by an earthquake and Jenn had just gotten back a week before.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Day 11 - Swimming Through St. Louis


The day got off to a slow start since I only had four hours of driving to get across Missouri to St. Louis. Of course I did want to see some of the city in the evening so I didn't lallygag too much.

In St. Louis, I was staying at Babler State Park, which was about 45 min out of downtown. It was little tricky to find the place since there weren't really any road signs, but I managed. When I stepped out of my car to set up up camp, I felt like I was swimming through the air. It was so muggy! Oh how I miss the perfect weather in San Fran.

After my tent was up, I went downtown to explore. I wandered around the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial (aka where the Arch is), took some pictures and walked through the museum there about how the west was opened up. It was interesting, especially considering that I had just seen a good portion of the country it was talking about.

After the memorial, I walked up the mall taking pictures of interesting buildings or just good shots given that the light was starting to fail. I also stopped by Busch Stadium, but alas, it was quiet. If there was a game playing, you know I'd have been in there, but there was no way to see a Cards game with my schedule.

I ended up having dinner in the restaurant district of downtown at a nice french restaurant. There was a restaurant week promotion going on where a lot of downtown restaurants were offering a prix fixe menu for a very reasonable price so I took advantage of it. I had the walnut grape salad, flank steak served over mashed potatoes with a red wine reduction sauce and a glass of Rosenblum Shiraz. Desert was a slice of decadent chocolate cake.

Now that I was full and it was dark, I got in the car to head back to the campsite. On the way, I realized that I hadn't been paying attention to my gas gauge when the alarm went off. Of course, not knowing where the next gas station would be off the freeway, I started freaking. Air conditioning off. Slow down to 55. Limp along hoping that I'd find some gas soon. Fortunately, it wasn't too far away so I was able to get there, but I was almost running on fumes.

When I got back to the site, I was greeted by a cacophony of sounds from the forest. It was mostly insets and they were loud! Normally you except a few peeps from the odd cricket, but here, in the muggy midwest, it was deafening.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Day 10 - Late for the Royal Barbecue

It was definitely a day to get up early. Not only did I have to get to the garage when it opened at 7 to avoid getting my car towed, but I had to make to Kansas City by the end of the day to see the Jays play the Royals.

There's not too much to say about the drive. I was entering the midwest which is pretty much just flat and boring. Maybe not as flat as I was expecting based on Saskatchewan, but pretty dull nonetheless. I noticed a couple of interesting signs along the way. First, it was obvious I was in evangelican country since the interstate was littered with pro-life propaganda billboards. "Thank You Mom for Choosing Life" and so on. Also, entering Kansas, there was a sign saying "Welcome to Kansas, the Wheat State". However, I didn't see one wheat field the whole drive, lots of corn though. Another sign of how the idiotic ethanol energy policy is only succeeding in using up our food.

When I finally got to KC, I went to the hotel and checked in. I was planning on trying to get some barbecue but I forgot to consider that I had just switched time zones and so I lost an hour. As it turned out, I just had enough time to get to the ballpark for the first pitch so I had to wait for dinner. I was told there was a good BBQ place at a casino and I figured they'd be open late catering to all the adicts so I could go there after the game.

I was pleasantly surprised with Kauffman Stadium. It had a lot of concrete reminiscent of parks pre-Camden Yards, but it didn't look like a monstrosity, it actually had some character to it. There were the waterfalls in right-center field, some fun spiraling ramps to get into the park, and the funny looking scoreboard framed by the Royals' logo. Also, it was pretty much symmetric except for a couple of small details including the fact that the vistor's bullpen was significantly smaller than the home team's. Home field advantage :-)

The game itself was pretty disappointing. Well it started off well, but way too quickly the Jays just fell asleep and started making errors, that would eventually cost them the game. A couple of bobbled balls and a dropped popup just set the tone for the evening.

There was also hardly anybody at the park. This made it feel somewhat impersonal, but I was at least able to sit right behind the Jays dugout. Ernie Whitt was in the dugout so I tried to get his attention, but he ignored me, which wasn't too surprising. There's got to be a lot of crazy fans they need to ignore during the game.

After the game, I tried going to the casino to get some food. By now it was 11pm, but it turns out the restaurants do actually close so I wasn't able to get any Kansas City BBQ and ended up having to settle for the only thing open: Burger King. Bleck.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Day 9 - The Beginning Of Baseball Season

I decided that I'd drive along Trail Ridge Road to get over the mountains to get to Denver. After glimpsing the other side of the park yesterday, I wanted to see as much of it as possible, but I knew I had to move quickly because the baseball game started in Coors Field at 1pm.

After packing up camp, I made my way up to the visitor's center again before continuing down the other side of the mountains. The construction wasn't a problem at all so it wasn't long until I made it out of the park with a battery well overcharged by all the coasting down the hill.

The way to Denver passed through Boulder and it being one of those iconic university towns, I wanted to stop quickly and see it. I figured it would be a good opportunity for breakfast too. The breakfast joint I found was great fun and was reminiscent of Haight St. All sorts of random decor, people wearing hippie clothes and a menu that would give Sam a run for his money. I ended up having a Faggedabouit crepe which was almost like an eggplant parm in crepe form. Quite good.

I would have stayed longer, but I had a game to see, so I hopped back in the car and headed for the city. I didn't want to park near the ballpark because it would be expensive and it would make more sense to park between the park and my hostel so that I wouldn't have to move the car. I found a garage on the edge of downtown and even though it was pretty empty, I didn't think too much about it since it was the weekend.

Since it would be much faster riding my bike to the game, I packed up everything I needed to watch the game into a bag and then unloaded my bike and set off. Going to the bottom of the garage, I started breaking SCREEEECH. I had forgotten about all the dirt caked onto my bike from the drive. As soon as I hit my brakes, they dug into the dirt and rocks which cause my rims to get a ripped up. Crap! Back at the car, I pulled out some water and paper towels and started to asses the damage. It didn't look good, but the bike was ridable, so after cleaning it up, I took off for the game.

The game itself was pretty enjoyable. The Cubbies were in town so there were a bunch of Cubs fans but even with that support, the Rockies won 6-3. I know this may seem weird given that it's a newer style park, but I really wasn't too impressed with it. Sure, it had a nice view of the mountains and a purple row of seats in the upper deck marking the mile high line, but it just didn't seem to have much in the way of character. It was just too similar to all these new ballparks and didn't have much to make it stand out. Sure, it's definitely better than all the 60's monstrosities that used to be around the major leagues, but it just didn't speak to me.

After the game, I made my way back to the car to get my stuff for the night. When I got to the garage, the gate was down and all the doors were locked. Ummm ok. Looking around it seems that the garage wasn't supposed to be open today but they probably had it open when I drove in because they were doing open houses for the condos in the adjoining building. So, I couldn't get anything for the night, although I was sure that my car would be safe :-)

I figured there wasn't much I could do so I just went to the hostel. It was by far the worst hostel I've ever been in. It was a dive! Most of the mattresses were just air mattresses, everything was dirty, the water was barely running in the shower. It was bad, but I was just crashing there for the night so it was manageable.

I wanted to get the dirt off my bike so I went to the store and bought some WD-40 and started cleaning away using the WD-40 as a solvent. After about an hour and half of work, my bike was much cleaner although my chain lube was packed away so I couldn't lube up the drive train properly. It's good for now.

For dinner, I found a nice mexican place and enjoyed some hominy soup a sandwich and some Fat Tire beer. I thought it would be my last chance to enjoy the great beer that sponsors the Tour De Fat and all forms of cycling. Of course, I found some later in Chicago, but that's a story for later.

After dinner, I took a nice walk through the park. The sky was clear, but it was so hazy, hardly anything was visible. So different than the mountains!